The meeting with Julie Fox of KCL Kings left me full of emotion, inspiration and a feeling of restriction, yet we still have come a long way in the last twenty years of the HIV discovery. I felt really inspired to create a lab coat interpreted visually as almost armour that’s unfinished due to the ongoing struggles professionals such as Fox face traveling to Sub-Saharan Africa.

I had this vision of the cells latching onto the bone marrow, and through this I draped sequins around the garment as a representation of how strong HIV is, yet the shoulders are large, representing the hard work and power the community is having helping cure and treat HIV.

Julie is co-founder of the UK HIV cure group Collaborative HIV Eradication of Reservoirs: UK BRC (CHERUB) and leads the international combined HIV adolescent prevention group CHAPS. Through knowing of her co-founded organisation, I was inspired to paint abstract cherubs on the jacket, along with distressed paint representing the roughness, yet softness of Julie’s life’s work. Sequins are a representation of something glittering in the sadness, people such as Julie are fundamental in coming together to change the world, and that to me is a positive shining light, sequins show this.

For this project I met with Laura and discussed her amazing career journey as a clinical advocate for sexual health. Along with the information Laura gave me I began researching HIV cells as I thought this would give me inspiration for texture and colour. I found one particular microscopic image of a cell infected by HIV, for something that is so frowned upon by many uneducated people, I found the shapes and textures in this image interesting and began creating textures through crochet using various different yarns to emulate the cell shapes under the microscope. I designed the lab coat using a pattern so it was still recognisable.

To portray the cell on a large scale I crocheted a mix of blues and greens together to create an aqua colour base coat and used various textured yellow yarns to create crochet circles to represent HIV. I then crocheted ruffles to create the texture of the cell and make the coat more 3D. As well as adding sequins and fringe for extra texture and bringing in my signature knitwear style. I wanted to show that not everything surrounding HIV has to be negative and the tactile glittery elements portrayed that well.

Laura set up People’s First Charter, a company that guides people to use correct preferred language when discussing HIV/STI material. I think by doing this Laura is helping to break stigmas and enabling people to learn the correct way of discussing HIV related language. I have included ‘P F C’ on the pocket of the lab coat to give a nod to all the amazing inspiring work that Laura continues to do through her organisation.

As it fades, we are reborn.

This lab coat is inspired by the life and work of British scientist Kate Bishop and British artist Derek Jarman. Even after being diagnosed with HIV, Jarman continued to express himself through art, planting flowers along the shore where is unbelievable for plants to grow. His poignant act became a powerful symbol of resilience, optimism, and an unwavering connection to life, leaving a deep impression on me.

During a conversation with the scientist Kate, I learned that DNA cells are often dyed and represented in blue. This detail resonated with me profoundly, merging in my mind with Jarman’s imagery of flowers dissolving into the ocean at the same time his significant film ‘blue’. The colour blue, often associated with scientific research, also carries meanings of vastness, depth, and the unknown—a bridge between knowledge and hope.

With this in mind, I created this lab coat as a tribute to Kate and Jarman’s spirit and a reflection on the intersection of art, science, and humanity. Designed in collaboration with Positive East and Patrick McDowell, this piece is more than just clothing—it is a statement of resilience, awareness, and the power of creative expression in the face of adversity.

I have focused on Dr Rageshri Dhiaryawan’s book Unheard and her research into how we can better encourage patients to stay in HIV care by improving experiences and outcomes. Heard and believed is a phrase that particularly stood out and is featured above an appliqued earth motif. This symbolises HIV/AIDS as a global matter and how Dr Rageshri described the importance of seeing a patient’s whole ‘world’.

The front features a padded heart, representing how healthcare workers personal experiences influence their practice and patient outcomes, and a reminder of the ‘person’ behind the uniform. A yellow ribbon fastens at the front of the cape as a symbol for Endometriosis which Dr Rageshri’s experience with has greatly influenced her practice.

‘Patient Power’ is a recurring phrase in Unheard, and on my cape alludes to the history of HIV/AIDS and its relationship with activism. Two shield designs (in the colours of the Unheard prescription – inspired cover artwork) are featured on the sides of the cape referencing the SHIELD study. One features an ear design, with arrows pointing inwards as a visual representative of active listening. The other reads Knowledge, Trust, Loyalty, Regard – 4 important traits Dr Rageshri explains as beneficial in improving doctor patient relationships.

This coat is a fusion of cultural identity and classic menswear tailoring, drawing inspiration from the colour schemes of both the Ghanaian and UK flags. The design blends these two distinct national palettes, symbolizing a connection between heritage and contemporary global fashion. Through tailoring, I have crafted a timeless silhouette that embodies structure, elegance, and versatility.

The coat’s long form is not just an aesthetic choice—it is a tribute to the extensive research and tireless advocacy of Vanessa in ending the stigma surrounding HIV. The elongated shape serves as a metaphor for endurance, progress, and the ongoing fight against societal prejudices. I used asymmetrical patterns to reflect the challenges of HIV research—an intricate, demanding process that requires resilience and dedication.

The tailored silhouette provides balance, symbolizing the structured expertise of Dr. Vanessa Apea, whose work in HIV research and stigma reduction is both groundbreaking and inspiring.